We left Valdez September 10th and we arrived in Deadhorse today September 16th. We have absolutely enjoyed one of the most scenic drives. The changing colors of the fall illuminated every leaf. We were so lucky the weather was in our favor. Each guidebook we read about Purdhoe Bay said that it is a work camp and there is nothing for a traveler. Interesting enough they were mostly correct. We were disappointed like most when traveling thousands of miles and watching the bank roll decrease one fuel fill after the next to pay another $70 per person to the oil companies for a tour to reach the Arctic Ocean; couldn’t they build one access road that allows folks to travel to the end? Maybe a small campground with basic amenities like water and possibly power?
The Deadhorse Camp Arctic Ocean tour was pleasant because of our helpful tour guide Jon. He was kind, funny, and informative, all the things you want in a tour guide. He even gave those that took the polar bear plunge and jumped full body in the Arctic Ocean a certificate. We learned that you don’t always get so lucky to have a bus driver that wants to tell you all about the area and how the oil process works. The Deadhorse Camp operates a tour but really they are just one of many contractors to support the oil operations and during times of no tours they have other jobs, so being a good tour guide is not required.
When we arrived in Deadhorse we saw all of the construction buildings and learned there are no schools, no single family homes, no children…just workers. We had heard there was a cafe somewhere but with no outside advertising it made finding stuff difficult.
Most guides only showed a Tesoro to get fuel, but we found there are 2 fuel stations. The Tesoro was replaced with a Colville 24 hour credit card pay at the pump station and not in any tourism guide is the North field Oil Station which was 46 cent cheaper with an office to also allow paying with cash during normal business hours.
We stopped at the Prudhoe Bay store because we heard there was a cafe upstairs. The information was poor but lucrative. Above the Napa/hardware store (and propane fill station) is a general store and souvenir shop. Brenda was working behind the desk and was wonderful. We were a bit hungry and she said from 5 to 8 pm at the Brook Camp (double white doors across from the store) they were serving prime rib buffet for $18 each. At first that sounds expensive but if you think about how far that food traveled to get to your dinner plate, secondly nothing can replace the experience of meeting some of the folks that choose to work two weeks on in Deadhorse, which is a dry county and 12 hour shifts, and two weeks off with a paid flight to your home wherever that is in the country. The people work hard, have limited time to unwind, and sleep after dinner. The food was good but the conversation made the night.
Lastly what to do! Leave Deadhorse and say goodbye to the fog and freezing temperatures? We opt to stay. We talked to the front desk of the Brooks Camp and found out we could stay in the parking lot for free, but to plug-in it would cost $25 and showers for $10. We have been enjoying showers in the camper, but the one amenity that Deadhorse does not have us potable water. The city water, truckers use to fill up is a too high power so no RV’s are allowed to fill up. We have enough water for another 4-5 days, but not for showering. The showers were actually a room with a single bed, a bathroom, and a recliner with cable TV, in which we hung out for the evening. Not too shabby after 3-4 days traveling down the Dalton Highway. Now for the trip south.
Cheers,
Sara and Wade
Diesel: $4.99 a gallon
Propane: $70 for a tank exchange or $7 a gallon with a $33 service fee
