Hi Family and Friends,
We arrived at Penrhyn Island with only 20 gallons of diesel in our tank, but we also knew that a supply sailing ship called the Kwai was on its way to Penrhyn from which we could buy fuel. We purchased 100 gallons of diesel for $460 US, which filled up our fuel tanks. We expect some significant motoring to get to Bora Bora, and we are now waiting for uncommon northeast winds, which do however occasionally happen. Such a northeast wind is not likely to remain for the length of time it takes to get to Bora Bora, yet we hope to get as far East as possible before a wind change.
Penrhyn Island (or Tongareva) has two villages, Omoka and Te Tautua. The villages are on the North end of the island but separated by the lagoon. Omoka is the official entry port on the North West side and where we anchored to clear in customs and receive fuel from the Kwai. Unfortunately, because this is the leeward side of the lagoon interior, winds which commonly reach into the mid 20 knot range, can create big waves inside the atoll. Waves even big enough to spray in an open hatch. Not a good or comfortable thing at all. In addition, the boat becomes a bit bouncy. Worst of all, the bottom of that anchorage area is deep submerged reefs, also in places having steep vertical rises of coral heads, called “bombies”, and these rocks grab on to your anchor and don’t want to let go. We were so fortunate yesterday that after an hour and half of working the anchor we were able to get the chain unwrapped from the coral head and not have to dive to get the anchor back. Also fortunate is that nothing like this has ever happened at any other anchorage. We are anchored back in our lovely protected little paradise on the North East side of the island where prevailing Easterly winds keep us anchored bow to shore.
When we first arrived at Te Tautua there was a lovely cruising family of six that was headed from Tahiti to their home port in New Zealand. We spent almost each day exploring the island with them and were extremely entertained and impressed with the maturity and intelligence of the four children. On the third day of meeting this family, the winds were predicted to go light, so we invited them to go fishing outside the atoll as early as we could see to not hit reefs or bombies. As soon as the bait hit the water of the first pole we were putting out, a 25 pound wahoo hit the blue tuna feather lure and we promptly reeled it in. Further offshore about 2 1/2 miles is a submerged reef of about 50 feet deep surrounded by water thousands of feet deep, which we headed for so as to try to catch another fish. This time the cedar plug bait hooked a fish that seemed much bigger, and since the big ones get away, you can guess that we lost that fish. We assume the lost fish was also a wahoo by how much much and fast it quickly peeled line off the pole. After an hour or so of fishing we decided to call it a day and we hooked two huge barracuda on the way in, which we set free. Once anchored Sara brought out non-toxic acrylic paints and different color tissue paper to paint the fish and then imprint them on the tissue paper, which turned out to be a big hit with the kids. The biology class for the day was taught by Wade as he explained how to filet a fish and caused a bit of commotion with the 27 black tip reef sharks circling the boat.
After the family left to sail to Pago Pago, we were left to finish their exploration of an abandoned village. Supposedly there was a third village on Penrhyn, and all that remains is rubble on a Motu. This became a multi day adventure of searching for this lost village, during which we battled jungle like palm trees and brush filled with spiders, waters of black tip reef sharks, and eels that came out of the water onshore a couple feet to hiss at us. Obviously this lost village is destined to be difficult to find, that is if we ever do find it.
As we were concluding a day of exploration on the south side of Penrhyn, the tide lowered so much that we had to drag the dinghy 300 yards to deeper water. As we walked along and making sure to look behind us often for possible approaching sharks, we came across a beautiful clam bed in the prettiest blue water. We had seen many of the remains of roasted clam shells in numerous places onshore so we figured the local people ate them and they must be good. These clams are about 6″ across and you would not believe how hard it is to pull them loose from the bombies to which they are afixed. We harvested 11 large claims for a Jambalaya dinner, which turned out okay but not like New Orleans. Sara gave thanks to every clam she put in bowling water and cried when the prettiest one went into the pot.
Each day has been a bit of an adventure and some days are just boat maintenance, laundry, cleaning, bread making, etc. For the most part, each day we go to the beach and cool off by swimming in an area that is sandy and mostly shark free. We haven’t had too many rainy days, but there have been a few that we fill with reading or watching movies.
Penrhyn people are very devoted to Church of Cook Island Christians and on Sunday we have been told that we are to do nothing except worship, eat, and sleep. Generally they attend three services on Sunday 6 am, 10 am, and 3 pm. Between each service, the community rests. We go to the 10 am service each Sunday and mostly read the bible as the sermon is given in Mauri, their native language. Two Sunday’s ago the pastor was kind to us and did half of the sermon in English, which we appreciated.
We were able to purchase 300 MB internet package for $20 New Zealand last week but it went so quickly we decided to hold off to purchase more until yesterday, when we met with the Blue Sky internet agent and he gave us a special of 2 GB for $20 New Zealand. When we went online last time Sara thought she was clearing security concerns, but actually disabled her ability to send and receive her email through SSB. Hopefully with this new bit of internet her email will resume as normal, haha.
We hope everyone is doing well, as we are happy and safe.
Wade and Sara
